Condensation trapped between your double-glazed panes, draughts around the frames and rising heating bills are all signs your windows are no longer doing their job. We replace tired, failing units with A-rated, made-to-measure double glazing, professionally fitted by FENSA-registered installers, backed by a free home survey and a 10-year guarantee.
From uPVC casement windows to secure composite doors and sliding patio units, we improve comfort, security and kerb appeal while helping cut heat loss from your Manchester home. Our glaziers follow best practice for sealing, insulation and ventilation, remove and dispose of old frames responsibly, and ensure all locks and hinges are aligned for smooth, reliable use.
Read on for advice on styles, glass options, pricing in £, and how to choose the right double glazing for your property.
Takeaways
- Electric-opening roof windows improve ventilation and comfort, especially in steamy kitchens, loft conversions and high-ceilinged spaces.
- Tubular sun tunnels brighten small or windowless rooms, cutting the need for artificial lighting during daylight hours.
- Argon-filled low‑E double or triple glazing reduces heat loss, lowering heating bills compared with older single glazing.
- Toughened outer and laminated inner panes enhance security, resisting impacts and reducing the risk of shattered glass.
- FENSA or Building Control certification protects resale value and proves your skylight installation meets UK regulations.
Which Skylight Type Suits My Room?
Choosing the right skylight starts with what the room needs. Fixed roof windows suit areas where you want strong, even daylight and have the ceiling height to take it. Tubular sun tunnels work better in small rooms, landings or spaces with tight roof access, giving you natural light through a 250–350mm tube without a big opening. For bathrooms, kitchens or loft rooms that get stuffy, go for vented or electric-opening roof windows to let steam and stale air out.
Check your ceiling height first. Higher ceilings take larger fixed roof windows without glare, and you can pair them with A-rated, low-E, argon-filled 24–28mm sealed units to keep heat loss down. On lower ceilings, a sun tunnel usually looks better and avoids an oversized pane sitting too close to eye level.
Your roof pitch matters. Most branded roof windows have a minimum and maximum pitch range; for example, many standard units sit happily between 15° and 90°. On flat or very low-pitch roofs we’ll use a raised upstand or kerb so water drains properly, then flash the skylight into that. Building Regulations may also require certain sizes or clear openings for escape on habitable rooms, so we measure that up before pricing anything.
For bathrooms and kitchens, use venting or electric roof windows rated for high humidity, with the correct flashing kit for your tile or slate. Trickle vents and proper Q-LON gaskets help cut condensation and draughts. In loft spaces and bedrooms, we’ll normally specify toughened outer glass and laminated inner panes for safety and noise reduction.
Before fitting, we check the rafters and any purlins so the opening doesn’t weaken the roof. If we need to trim out a new opening, we double up the surrounding timbers and insulate tight to the frame to keep the U-values in line with current regs. Once it’s in, we finish with internally beaded frames, proper vapour barrier ties into your plasterboard, and can supply a FENSA certificate number on completion for compliant jobs in domestic properties.
Skylight Installation: How the Process Differs by Type
Each skylight type ties into the roof and ceiling in a different way, so the fitting process is not one-size-fits-all. A compact sun tunnel is mostly an internal job with a small, neat roof penetration, while a larger fixed or opening roof window needs a proper structural opening, reinforced timbers and full flashing work to keep it watertight and within Building Regulations.
On sun tunnels we’re mainly dealing with minimal roof tile/slate removal, a clean 150–400mm ceiling cut, and getting the reflective tube aligned straight so you don’t lose light. Joints are taped and sealed to stay airtight, and the internal diffuser is fixed tight to the plasterboard, usually with a vapour barrier and plenty of insulation packed around to cut heat loss.
Fixed or opening roof windows need more from the roof structure. We set out the opening to match the made-to-measure frame size, trim the rafters, and install new headers and trimmers so the load is carried correctly. The unit goes in plumb and level at the right pitch, with the manufacturer’s flashing kit fitted in sequence to suit tiles or slates, and we finish with breathable membrane and insulation tight to the 28mm argon-filled, low-E double-glazed unit to reduce cold spots.
Electric venting roof windows add wiring, so we plan cable runs with a qualified electrician, protect the flex in the roof void, and position switches or remote controls where you can actually reach them. On powered units we also allow for condensate drainage channels built into the frame, and check the sash seals and Q-LON gaskets are compressing properly so you don’t end up with draughts or staining on the ceiling.
For every skylight we check the roof build-up, ventilation requirements and any Part L and Part B implications before cutting. We follow the manufacturer’s fixing and flashing instructions to the letter and, on replacement work, we note the FENSA certificate number on completion so you have proof the installation meets current UK standards.
Skylight Installation Costs, Timeline and Permits
Now you’ve seen the different skylight options, it’s worth knowing what they actually cost to fit, how long we’ll be on site, and what sign-offs you’ll need. As a rough guide, fixed roof windows usually sit in the middle on price, sun tunnels are cheaper, and electric opening units come in higher because of the electrics and extra sealing work.
On a typical semi in Clapham, you’re generally looking at:
- Sun tunnel swap into an existing opening: from around £450–£700 supplied and fitted, usually done in a single day with no structural work.
- New A-rated roof window into an existing roof: from around £800–£1,400, including a 28mm argon-filled, low‑E double-glazed unit, flashing kit and full weatherproofing.
- New curb-mounted or electric skylight: from around £1,200–£2,000+, allowing for wiring the motor, extra insulation around the opening and upgraded flashings.
A straight sun tunnel replacement is normally a day: strip out, check the rafters, fit the new unit, flashings and internal finish, then seal with a Q‑LON gasket around the ceiling trim. A retrofit roof window usually takes 1–3 days, as we cut the opening, trim and support the rafters properly, fit the made‑to‑measure frame, install the flashing kit, then re‑tile and foam any draught points.
Electric or curb-mounted units take longer because we’re coordinating an electrician, testing the controls, and often upgrading the insulation and vapour barrier around the opening for Building Regulations. If Building Control sign-off is needed, we’ll agree inspection dates in advance so there’s no gap with the roof open.
Check with your local council on planning and Building Regulations early; some approvals can take a few weeks. As FENSA-registered installers, we issue a certificate on completion where it applies, noting the certificate number on your paperwork, and we set out in writing who is handling any planning or Building Control applications before work starts.
Materials, Glazing and Controls to Maximize Light, Energy and Ventilation
The rooflight isn’t just a hole in the roof – the frame, glass and controls decide how much usable daylight, heat and fresh air you actually get, and whether it passes Building Regulations. We fit thermally broken frames in timber, PVCu or aluminium with a proper thermal break, so you don’t end up with a cold bridge and condensation on the frame in winter.
For the glass, we usually recommend 28mm sealed units, double or triple glazed, argon-filled with a low‑E coating. That keeps U‑values down to current standards, cuts draughts and helps stop rooms overheating on sunny days. Safety glass is standard: toughened outer pane with a laminated inner where needed, to meet impact and fall‑through requirements over stairs, landings and circulation areas.
If you want ventilation as well as light, we can specify:
- Manually opening vents for simple purge ventilation
- Electrically operated roof windows with rain sensors and remote switches
- Trickle vents to give a constant background air change and help manage moisture
Controls can be tied into existing building systems, or set up with basic sensors and timers, so blinds, opening lights and ventilation work together – keeping glare down, limiting unwanted solar gain and still giving you good daylight. All units are installed to current standards, with proper sealing and insulation around the upstand, and signed off with a FENSA certificate on completion.
Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Warranty Questions to Ask Installers
Keeping double glazing performing properly means checking it, fixing small issues early and knowing exactly what the installer’s warranty covers. Plan routine inspections of the frames, 28mm sealed units, gaskets and trickle vents, and write down what you find. Clear photos and dates make any warranty claim or FENSA paperwork much easier later on.
On maintenance visits we look for perished Q-LON gaskets, failed unit seals (misting between panes), loose beads and any gaps that could cause draughts or water tracking. After heavy rain, check the external seals and cills – hairline leaks often start at the corners or around badly sealed cill end caps. If you spot any movement around the frame or cracking to the sealant, get it re-sealed before water gets into the wall.
For powered or smart openings – like electric roof windows or trickle-vent fans – rule out simple faults first. Check the fused spur or breaker, then the remote or wall switch, before assuming the motor has gone. If the unit is still under warranty, don’t strip it down yourself; ring the installer so they can log it and keep the parts warranty intact.
Before you sign up, ask the installer for clear, written warranty terms, not just a number of years. Pin them down on:
- How long glass, frames and hardware are covered separately
- What’s included for parts and what you’ll pay for labour or call-out
- Response times for leaks or failed locks
- What’s excluded: accidental damage, misuse, lack of cleaning, unapproved alterations
On completion you should get a FENSA certificate, warranty certificate and, if they’ve done it properly, a stamped service or inspection sheet listing frame type, A-rated argon-filled low-E units, multi-point locking and internally beaded sashes. Keep all of that with your house documents. It proves the job in, say, Manchester was fitted to current Building Regulations and backs you up if you ever need a warranty claim or to show compliance when selling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do Skylights Increase My Home's Resale Value?
Yes – decent quality skylights usually help resale, because buyers like bright rooms and modern glazing. If you go for well‑sealed, low‑E, A‑rated glass units with proper flashing and FENSA‑registered installation, they can improve energy efficiency and look. Keep paperwork, guarantees (often 10 years) and any maintenance records, as that reassures surveyors and future buyers.
Can Skylights Be Installed in Historic or Listed Buildings?
Yes, you can fit skylights in many historic or listed buildings, but you’ll need listed building consent and to keep conservation officers onside. We’d use conservation-style glazing, slim profiles and reversible fixings so the original fabric isn’t harmed, and submit detailed drawings and specs to the council to give you the best chance of approval.
Are Skylights Safe During Hailstorms or Severe Weather?
They’re generally fine in hail if you pick the right spec. Go for laminated glass or polycarbonate units that meet the relevant impact standards, and make sure they’re properly flashed and installed so you don’t get leaks in heavy weather. If it’s an escape roof window, we’ll check it meets egress and building regs before fitting.
Do Skylights Affect Indoor Acoustics or Noise Levels?
Yes, skylights can change how sound behaves in the room. If you don’t specify sound‑control glass, you’ll hear more traffic or rain noise, so we’d look at laminated or double/triple A‑rated units, usually 28mm with argon fill and insulated frames. They don’t absorb sound, so you’d balance them with softer finishes or acoustic panels to stop echoing.
Can I Add Blinds or Shades After Installation?
Yes, you can fit blinds or shades after the windows are in. For awkward-to-reach openings or where building regs on egress and electrics apply, motorised blinds are usually best, and they’ll need wiring to current standards. I’d get a qualified fitter to check the frame, wind load, and any fire or child-safety requirements before you go ahead.